Collars, Leashes, and Harnesses - Oh my!!

Just about every day, I take my trio out for a hound-worthy walk.  This involves Mudd, my lab/basset mix (he's built like a skinny lab) and the dynamic beagle-duo of Annabelle and Lulu.  We don't just go around the block - we're fortunate enough to live in a neighborhood that's surrounded by wetlands, and is also just down the street from a forest preserve - so we like to get in to those areas and sniff around for fun things.  As my three are SO nose-focused, and are always scenting for something interesting to pursue, strong gear is A MUST!!  Now, you're probably thinking - who needs "strong gear" for a beagle?  And, in the case of Lulu, you're mostly correct.  For her, I really just need something that will last - though when I do give her lead and she gets into brush areas where I can't easily see her, I want the reassurance of knowing that the hardware on her leash and collar is very reliable.  Annabelle, on the other hand, is no ordinary beagle.  First off, she's a beagle mix - and to the practiced eyes of myself and several other dog people, appears likely to be mixed with a pitbull (or similar type) of terrier.  So she's packing a lot of muscle on that 22-lb frame of hers, and is surprisingly strong (and headstrong).  Though she's obedient, and has been through Obedience classes as well as Agility classes with me, she still has been able to break 2 collars and a harness while out walking with me!!  Mudd is just under 60-lbs, and is usually obedient and predictable, but again - because of the "wild" areas we walk in, I need the reassurance of gear that won't fail.  As always, money was spent and wasted before I finally came across what I believe to be the ULTIMATE in dog-walking accessories - at prices that are not ridiculous, considering the quality and performance of the products.  The brand is "Ruff Wear", and I have been THRILLED with my purchases.  All 3 of my dogs wear the "DoubleBack Collar", which is incredibly strong, and has a lace-back option which is so superior to the slide adjust collars that my dogs had figured out how to slip out of, and the regular buckle collars that never seem to fit just right.  With the "DoubleBack", you are able to adjust the collar to fit your dog's neck EXACTLY as you want, then use the lace-back to prevent it from slipping - ever.  I also purchased 2 of the "DoubleBack" leashes, which come in colors to match the collar.  But the best thing about the leash is the hardware: it has a screw-gate locking carabiner for a secure collar connection!!  This is a connection that no dog is going to break.  Annabelle also has the "Web Master" harness - another great piece for extra security.  It is padded around the chest and at the sternum for comfort, and has handles on it, so I can lift her out of, and over various wilderness "situations".  Lulu walks along on the "Roamer Leash", which has an extendable elastic core, and can adjust to be worn around my waist (though I often just clip it to my belt loop).  All 3 leashes really minimize pulling, especially the "DoubleBack", and offer great stability.  And, Ruff Wear does offer a limited guarantee/warranty on their products.
~Happy, Healthy Hounding  :)

Do-it-Yourself Vaccinations

Yes, it IS possible to vaccinate your dog in the comfort of your own home.  Though it's not an option I've ever tried, proponents say that in addition to saving on vet office costs, this offers a less stressful experience for your dog.  The RABIES vaccine is not one that is available for at-home injection, as it is required by law, and therefore regulated accordingly by state/county.  The rabies vaccine MUST be given by your local veterinarian.  The vaccines you CAN purchase online for use at home include: distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus, adenovirus, parainfluenza, leptospirosis, coronavirus, bordetella, and lyme.  Fortunately they are available in combination form - often as "5-way" or "7-way" vaccines, so you don't have to inject your dog over and over and over!   And bordetella is given intranasally, so no injection is required at all.  Vaccines can be available as both "modified live" and "killed".  The benefits of MODIFIED LIVE include: less frequent adverse responses and ease of administration.  The disadvantages include: higher potential for vaccine-induced disease, your dog will "shed" the virus for an amount of time after being vaccinated, and there is a greater risk for pregnant and immunocompromised animals.  The benefits of KILLED include: the active component in the vaccine will NOT revert to being virulent, your dog will not "shed" any virus after vaccination, and these are considered safe for pregnant and immunocompromised animals.  The disadvantage in using a killed vaccine is that TWO DOSES are often needed for an appropriate immune response.
If you do choose to vaccinate your dog at home, be sure to purchase the vaccines from a reputable source that guarantees fresh product.  You will also need to learn how to give a SUBCUTANEOUS shot to your dog - it is a somewhat straightforward process, and there are good resources online to guide you through the process (giving an INTRAMUSCULAR shot is not recommended, unless you have been taught by a professional).  And remember: needles and syringes must be used only ONCE.  Also, in some states, you WILL NEED A PRESCRIPTION to purchase the syringes (you do not need a prescription to purchase vaccines) - these states include: CT, DE, IL, NJ, and  NY.  While vaccinating at home may be convenient and a time/money saving option, you will still need to bring your dog in for his/her yearly check-up to your local vet.
~Happy, Healthy Hounding  :)

The Dog Food Dilemma Part II: Allergy Diets

Thanks to Mudd, my lab/basset mix, I became quite the expert on allergy-provoking dog food ingredients.  The poor guy was always struggling with the runs, puking, or stinky, gunky ears.  Or a combination of all three.  His health problems led me to the wonders of grain-free foods for dogs.  And what a life-saver that proved to be!  We did try the "breed-specific" foods (for labs, as they have a strong tendency to be sensitive to corn) with no success.  We also tried the foods that were advertised for dogs with "sensitive stomachs" - these foods had oatmeal listed as a primary ingredient.  Still, no success.  Probably due to the various other not-so-healthy ingredients also included.   After doing more research, I moved on to the "limited ingredient" class of foods.  These are the foods with a single protein and single carbohydrate source - such as duck and potato.  Ahhhh - success!!!  The secret to these foods is that the ingredient list is KEPT SIMPLE.  Also, the carbohydrate present is NOT just an inexpensive filler, and therefore most likely one that the dog has not been exposed to - and reacted to - in the past.  It is for this same reason that the meat sources in these foods seem a bit "exotic" as well.  When you are dealing with a dog with sensitivities, it is best to introduce a new protein - one that they have not encountered before, and therefore have not been "sensitized" to.  A few dog food companies now offer good options to choose from as far as limited ingredient foods go.  Just remember to read those labels, and avoid the unhealthy ingredients I listed in "The Dog Food Dilemma Part I: Ingredients".
~Happy, Healthy Hounding

The Dog Food Dilemma Part I : INGREDIENTS

With all the options available, navigating the dog food aisle can be quite time-consuming.  And also a waste of money, if the food you do finally purchase is not what is really best for your dog.  Thanks to my lab/basset mix, Mudd, I spent HOURS in that food aisle, not to mention wasting money.  You see, Mudd - like most labs - has a VERY sensitive stomach.  If he didn't vomit it up, it would rip right through him.  Because of him, I became a student of dog food labels and feeding styles.
Let's start with the useless, and sometimes allergy-provoking fillers.  One of the first things to eliminate, as you read through the ingredient list, is CORN.  It is merely an inexpensive filler, and provides no real nutritional value to the dog.  Plus, it is a COMMON ALLERGY FOOD, especially for labs.  BARLEY is another filler your dog can happily do without, as is RICE (Brewer's rice as well).  WHEAT GLUTEN and SOY FLOUR also offer no nutritional benefit.
And on to the nitty-gritty ingredients: the animal sources.  These are important, as the meat source is what is providing your pet with the essential protein he/she needs.  And there are protein sources out there that are not healthy.  Avoid  ANIMAL DIGESTS - a broth made of specified OR unspecified parts of specified OR unspecified animals.  This includes the use of "4 D" animals - dead, diseased, disabled or dying prior to slaughter.  Do not buy food with any type of BY-PRODUCT listed as the meat source.  By-products include "clean" parts of the carcass, but these are less digestible, and include head, feet, bones, etc.  They are an inexpensive protein boost for the food.  The same basically holds true for a meat source labeled as MEAL.  Meat "meal" can also be sourced from "4 D" animals, due to lack of quality control standards.
This should provide you with a basic start to the Dog Food Dilemma - I will follow up with blogs about the RAW diet, allergy diets, and high protein/low-carb diets.
~Happy Hounding