Pets Used in Laboratories

Yes, pets are used as lab animals for research, education, and testing.  Many come from commercial suppliers, but approximately 50% are taken from shelters or purchased from brokers, who obtain them from newspaper/internet ads.  One breed that is considered especially desirable as an experimental lab animal is the beagle, due to their reliably friendly nature, small size, and tendency to be long-lived.  There are laws in place regarding the humane care of lab animals - regulating housing, ventilation, and sanitation.  There are also laws that attempt to address the pain/distress experienced by these animals.  But more needs to be done.  Both the Humane Society and the Johns Hopkins Center for Alternatives to Animal Testing provide accurate information along with suggestions on how you can make a difference.  Take a look at their web sites:

http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/pets_experiments/

http://caat.jhsph.edu/

Hazardous Plants

If you have any of these plants in or around your home, be sure to keep them out of your dog's reach.  This list includes plants that are fully or partially poisonous.

A:  Aloe, Amaryllis, Andromeda Japonica, Asian Lily, Asparagus Fern, Australian Nut, Autumn Crocus, Azalea
B:  Belladonna, Bird of Paradise, Bittersweet, Black Locust, Branching Ivy, Buckeye, Buddhist Pine
C:  Caladium, Calla Lily, Castor Bean, Ceriman, Clematis, Cordatum, Corn Plant, Cycads, Cyclamen
D:  Daffodil, Daylily, Devil's Ivy, Dieffenbachia, Dumbcane
E:  Easter Lily, Elephant Ears, Emerald Fern, English Ivy, Eucalyptus
F:  Ferns, Fiddle-leaf Philodendron, Florida Beauty, Foxglove
G:  Glacier Ivy, Gladiolas, Gold Dust Dracaenas, Golden Pothos
H:  Heavenly Bamboo, Honeysuckle, Hurricane Plant, Hyacinth, Hydrangea
I:  Iris
J:  Jerusalem Cherry, Jimson Weed
K:  Kalanchoe
L:  Lantana, Lilies, Lily of the Valley, Lupine
M:  Marble Queen, Morning Glory, Mother-in-Law, Mountain Laurel
N:  Narcissus, Needlepoint Ivy, Nephthysis, Nightshade
O:  Oleander
P:  Panda, Peace Lily, Philodendron, Poison Hemlock, Precatory Bean, Privet
R:  Red Emerald, Rhododendron, Ribbon Plant
S:  Sago Palm, Satin Pothos, Schefflera, Striped Dracaena, Sweetheart Ivy
T:  Tulip
W:  Water Hemlock, Wisteria
Y:  Yew, Yucca

Harmful Food Items

Here's a list of some common food items that are harmful to dogs:
-Alcoholic beverages
-Avocado
-Baking soda/baking powder
-Caffeine
-Chocolate (all forms)
-Coffee (all forms)
-Fat trimmings (can cause pancreatitis)
-Fruit pits and seeds
-Garlic
-Grapes
-Gum, candy, other foods sweetened with Xylitol
-Macadamia nuts
-Moldy/spoiled foods
-Mushrooms
-Nutmeg
-Onions
-Persimmons
-Potato peelings and green potatoes
-Raisins
-Raw yeast dough
-Rhubarb leaves
-Salt
-Tea leaves

~Happy, healthy hounding  :)

Canine Bloat: Gastric Dilation Volvulus

BLOAT:  it appears suddenly, is very serious, and progresses quickly into a life-threatening condition.  Being able to recognize the symptoms of bloat and knowing what immediate actions to take can make the difference between life and death for your dog.  There are also a few things you can do to possibly help avoid this horrible condition from occuring.  Bloat is a condition of the digestive system - in simple terms, the stomach swells with excess fluid, gas, (or both) due to a twisting rotation of the stomach.  The fluid/gas is then unable to leave the stomach.  Meanwhile, major vessels are also compressed, severely affecting the dog's circulation.  This combination leads to shock, coma, and death if not treated quickly.  Even with treatment, a certain percentage of dogs affected by bloat do die.  Initial treatment usually involves an effort to relieve pressure in the stomach, along with the administration of fluids and medications.  Once the dog is stable, surgery is usually performed in an attempt to turn the stomach back into a more "normal" position, where it is then stitched, or stapled to help keep it in place.  Any dog who has had an episode of bloat is at greater risk of suffering bloat again in the future.   There are some symptoms that are usually seen in dogs suffering bloat.  These include: restlessness, panting, whining, pacing, drooling (signs of pain), attempts at vomitting with no results, attempts at defecating with no results, swollen stomach MAY be visible (but not always!), difficulty breathing, walking and standing, excessive heartbeat, off-colored gums.  IF YOU OBSERVE THESE SYMPTOMS GET TO A VET IMMEDIATELY!   There are also risk-factors for bloat.  Large, "deep-chested" dogs are more at risk.  These include (but not limited to) breeds such as:  GSD, Great Dane, Standard Poodle, Rottweiler, Akita, Bloodhound, Great Pyrenees, Boxer, Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Doberman, etc.  Eating/feeding habits also affect bloat risk.  Here is where YOU can make a difference!!  Do what you can to keep your dog from gobbling up large meals.  You can do this by offering 2 smaller meals a day instead of 1 large meal.  Place ice cubes in your dog's food bowl to slow down the eating process (or purchase one of the special bowls now available for this purpose).  If you own multiple dogs, feed them in separate areas to avoid "guzzling".   Other feeding habits to reduce risk: never feed before or after heavy work/play sessions.  Do not allow your dog to drink large amounts of water after eating.  Feed in a relaxed environment.  If you change your dog's diet, do so gradually.  Feed a QUALITY FOOD: avoid excess grains and carbohydrates.  Consider adding probiotics to your dog's diet to promote healthy digestion.  Also, studies suggest that elevated feeding bowls are NOT the best for your dog.

~Happy Hounding  :)

Common Household Medications For Fido

Following is a list of common household medications that we at the rescue I volunteer with recommend for safe use on dogs.  These can be VERY useful, especially if you cannot immediately reach your veterinarian.  I've listed the condition the medication relieves as well as recommended canine dosage.

BENADRYL : allergies/itching : 1/2-1 mg per lb every 8 hrs. Max dose 2 mg per lb.
BUFFERED ASPIRIN : pain relief/anti-inflammatory : 5 mg per lb. every 12 hrs.
DRAMAMINE : motion sickness : 12 1/2 - 50 mg every 8 hrs.
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 3% : induce vomitting after ingesting poison : 10 ml by mouth, repeat if not vomitting, do not exceed 3 doses
IMODIUM AD : diarrhea : 1 ml per lb or 1 mg per 20 lbs every 8 hrs.
KAOPECTATE : diarrhea : 1 ml per lb every 2 hrs.
MINERAL OIL : constipation : up to 4 tablespoons daily
CANNED PUMPKIN : constipation : 2-3 teaspoons every 8-12 hrs.
PEPTO BISMOL : diarrhea, vomitting, gas : 1 tsp per 5 lbs or 1 caplet per 20 lbs every 6 hrs.
ROBITUSSIN DM : coughing, hacking : 1 tsp per 20 lbs every 8-12 hours
IBUPROFEN AND TYLENOL : DO NOT USE!!!!!!!!

Delicious and Beneficial Supplements: GREEN BEEF TRIPE

Over the years, I've tried MANY - and there are a few supplements that I simply will NOT do without when it comes to my dogs' diet.   I feed my dogs a dry dog food, but one which is protein-focused, grain-free, and low carb.  This type of dry kibble is based on the RAW feeding philosophy.  Because I am a proponent of the nutritional benefits of RAW feeding, I choose my supplements accordingly.  Most true RAW diets highly recommend the inclusion of GREEN TRIPE - tripe is the stomach lining of an animal, and "green" is natural and UNBLEACHED, containing partially digested plant matter.   True RAW green tripe is an item you would need to get from a butcher.  However, you can also do what I do - and get a canned version from one of two GREAT sources: TRIPETT, and SOLID GOLD Green Beef Tripe.  I have had great success with both - even with the sensitive stomach over here!!   And tripe provides MAJOR health benefits.  It contains digestive enzymes, fatty acids, and amino acids not found in dog food.  Nutrients from the grasses and grains are available to your dog because they have already been partially processed by the cow's digestive acids.  The regular consumption of green tripe also helps to maintain cleaner teeth, due to these same acids.  Something important to note:  Tripett is JUST green beef tripe, and is meant only as a SUPPLEMENT to a balanced diet.  Solid Gold green beef tripe contains other ingredients, and is considered to be nutritionally complete.  AND OH BOY do the dogs LOVE this stuff!!!!  One of the beagles - Lulu - gets SO excited when I serve it that her teeth chatter like crazy as I dish it out.  Let me warn you though - it does have a bit of a stink to it - which only seems to increase the eating pleasure for the dogs  :)

~Happy Hounding  :)

The Dog Food Dilemma Part III: RAW feeding

The RAW method of feeding is based on the theory that as natural carnivores, dogs are best maintained on a feeding model that resembles that of their non-domesticated counterpart: the wolf.   In looking at a domestic dog's physiology, the similarities between dog and wolf are many.  In addition to the common physical characteristics that are easily seen, dogs also share about 99% of their mitochondrial DNA with their wolf ancestors.  Dogs and wolves can and do freely interbreed, and produce fertile offspring.  The significant differences between wolf and domestic dog are temperament and variances in external appearance.  Also, a domestic dog that has been fed a grain-based, highly processed food experiences a decrease in the production of the enzymes that completely digest raw meaty bones.  However, the dog still has the ability to produce these enzymes, and those who feed RAW diets usually see their dog adjust quite well to the diet rather quickly.  The key to successful RAW feeding - and the challenge - is providing your dog with the correct nutrtional balance.  An all-meat diet is NOT balanced.  Your dog will NOT do well if fed only meat.  Bones and organ meat must be fed as well - this is referred to as the "prey-model diet".  Enough variety needs to be provided to ensure that your dog receives the necessary proportions of fat, protein, vitamins, minerals and enzymes to maintain good health.  A common concern with RAW feeding involves bacteria - will the bacteria present in uncooked meat hurt the dog?  Dogs are VERY well-equipped to deal with bacteria (remember - they lick their butts, yet don't get sick.....).  From the special enzymes in their saliva to the specific acidic environment in their gut, they have some very special adaptations.  Another concern involves the connection between RAW feeding and aggression - will a RAW fed dog become more "blood thirsty"?  It has been my experience (and that of my friends) that feeding a dog RAW meat does not turn the dog into a creature that will hunt your children, cats, or other small pets.  Any well-socialized dog knows it's limits in the family, and will act accordingly, regardless of how it is fed.  Similarly, a dog with a strong prey drive is going to have that strong prey drive even if it is fed kibble.  A dog's behavior around others really depends upon it's environment and training, as well as personality, NOT what it is fed.  We had a rottweiler-german shepherd mix (who has since passed away) who I fed RAW, and she was the sweetest dog imaginable.  There are some excellent books, internet resources and chat groups available that you should definitely check out if you are going to feed RAW.
~Happy, healthy hounding  :)

Collars, Leashes, and Harnesses - Oh my!!

Just about every day, I take my trio out for a hound-worthy walk.  This involves Mudd, my lab/basset mix (he's built like a skinny lab) and the dynamic beagle-duo of Annabelle and Lulu.  We don't just go around the block - we're fortunate enough to live in a neighborhood that's surrounded by wetlands, and is also just down the street from a forest preserve - so we like to get in to those areas and sniff around for fun things.  As my three are SO nose-focused, and are always scenting for something interesting to pursue, strong gear is A MUST!!  Now, you're probably thinking - who needs "strong gear" for a beagle?  And, in the case of Lulu, you're mostly correct.  For her, I really just need something that will last - though when I do give her lead and she gets into brush areas where I can't easily see her, I want the reassurance of knowing that the hardware on her leash and collar is very reliable.  Annabelle, on the other hand, is no ordinary beagle.  First off, she's a beagle mix - and to the practiced eyes of myself and several other dog people, appears likely to be mixed with a pitbull (or similar type) of terrier.  So she's packing a lot of muscle on that 22-lb frame of hers, and is surprisingly strong (and headstrong).  Though she's obedient, and has been through Obedience classes as well as Agility classes with me, she still has been able to break 2 collars and a harness while out walking with me!!  Mudd is just under 60-lbs, and is usually obedient and predictable, but again - because of the "wild" areas we walk in, I need the reassurance of gear that won't fail.  As always, money was spent and wasted before I finally came across what I believe to be the ULTIMATE in dog-walking accessories - at prices that are not ridiculous, considering the quality and performance of the products.  The brand is "Ruff Wear", and I have been THRILLED with my purchases.  All 3 of my dogs wear the "DoubleBack Collar", which is incredibly strong, and has a lace-back option which is so superior to the slide adjust collars that my dogs had figured out how to slip out of, and the regular buckle collars that never seem to fit just right.  With the "DoubleBack", you are able to adjust the collar to fit your dog's neck EXACTLY as you want, then use the lace-back to prevent it from slipping - ever.  I also purchased 2 of the "DoubleBack" leashes, which come in colors to match the collar.  But the best thing about the leash is the hardware: it has a screw-gate locking carabiner for a secure collar connection!!  This is a connection that no dog is going to break.  Annabelle also has the "Web Master" harness - another great piece for extra security.  It is padded around the chest and at the sternum for comfort, and has handles on it, so I can lift her out of, and over various wilderness "situations".  Lulu walks along on the "Roamer Leash", which has an extendable elastic core, and can adjust to be worn around my waist (though I often just clip it to my belt loop).  All 3 leashes really minimize pulling, especially the "DoubleBack", and offer great stability.  And, Ruff Wear does offer a limited guarantee/warranty on their products.
~Happy, Healthy Hounding  :)

Do-it-Yourself Vaccinations

Yes, it IS possible to vaccinate your dog in the comfort of your own home.  Though it's not an option I've ever tried, proponents say that in addition to saving on vet office costs, this offers a less stressful experience for your dog.  The RABIES vaccine is not one that is available for at-home injection, as it is required by law, and therefore regulated accordingly by state/county.  The rabies vaccine MUST be given by your local veterinarian.  The vaccines you CAN purchase online for use at home include: distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus, adenovirus, parainfluenza, leptospirosis, coronavirus, bordetella, and lyme.  Fortunately they are available in combination form - often as "5-way" or "7-way" vaccines, so you don't have to inject your dog over and over and over!   And bordetella is given intranasally, so no injection is required at all.  Vaccines can be available as both "modified live" and "killed".  The benefits of MODIFIED LIVE include: less frequent adverse responses and ease of administration.  The disadvantages include: higher potential for vaccine-induced disease, your dog will "shed" the virus for an amount of time after being vaccinated, and there is a greater risk for pregnant and immunocompromised animals.  The benefits of KILLED include: the active component in the vaccine will NOT revert to being virulent, your dog will not "shed" any virus after vaccination, and these are considered safe for pregnant and immunocompromised animals.  The disadvantage in using a killed vaccine is that TWO DOSES are often needed for an appropriate immune response.
If you do choose to vaccinate your dog at home, be sure to purchase the vaccines from a reputable source that guarantees fresh product.  You will also need to learn how to give a SUBCUTANEOUS shot to your dog - it is a somewhat straightforward process, and there are good resources online to guide you through the process (giving an INTRAMUSCULAR shot is not recommended, unless you have been taught by a professional).  And remember: needles and syringes must be used only ONCE.  Also, in some states, you WILL NEED A PRESCRIPTION to purchase the syringes (you do not need a prescription to purchase vaccines) - these states include: CT, DE, IL, NJ, and  NY.  While vaccinating at home may be convenient and a time/money saving option, you will still need to bring your dog in for his/her yearly check-up to your local vet.
~Happy, Healthy Hounding  :)

The Dog Food Dilemma Part II: Allergy Diets

Thanks to Mudd, my lab/basset mix, I became quite the expert on allergy-provoking dog food ingredients.  The poor guy was always struggling with the runs, puking, or stinky, gunky ears.  Or a combination of all three.  His health problems led me to the wonders of grain-free foods for dogs.  And what a life-saver that proved to be!  We did try the "breed-specific" foods (for labs, as they have a strong tendency to be sensitive to corn) with no success.  We also tried the foods that were advertised for dogs with "sensitive stomachs" - these foods had oatmeal listed as a primary ingredient.  Still, no success.  Probably due to the various other not-so-healthy ingredients also included.   After doing more research, I moved on to the "limited ingredient" class of foods.  These are the foods with a single protein and single carbohydrate source - such as duck and potato.  Ahhhh - success!!!  The secret to these foods is that the ingredient list is KEPT SIMPLE.  Also, the carbohydrate present is NOT just an inexpensive filler, and therefore most likely one that the dog has not been exposed to - and reacted to - in the past.  It is for this same reason that the meat sources in these foods seem a bit "exotic" as well.  When you are dealing with a dog with sensitivities, it is best to introduce a new protein - one that they have not encountered before, and therefore have not been "sensitized" to.  A few dog food companies now offer good options to choose from as far as limited ingredient foods go.  Just remember to read those labels, and avoid the unhealthy ingredients I listed in "The Dog Food Dilemma Part I: Ingredients".
~Happy, Healthy Hounding

The Dog Food Dilemma Part I : INGREDIENTS

With all the options available, navigating the dog food aisle can be quite time-consuming.  And also a waste of money, if the food you do finally purchase is not what is really best for your dog.  Thanks to my lab/basset mix, Mudd, I spent HOURS in that food aisle, not to mention wasting money.  You see, Mudd - like most labs - has a VERY sensitive stomach.  If he didn't vomit it up, it would rip right through him.  Because of him, I became a student of dog food labels and feeding styles.
Let's start with the useless, and sometimes allergy-provoking fillers.  One of the first things to eliminate, as you read through the ingredient list, is CORN.  It is merely an inexpensive filler, and provides no real nutritional value to the dog.  Plus, it is a COMMON ALLERGY FOOD, especially for labs.  BARLEY is another filler your dog can happily do without, as is RICE (Brewer's rice as well).  WHEAT GLUTEN and SOY FLOUR also offer no nutritional benefit.
And on to the nitty-gritty ingredients: the animal sources.  These are important, as the meat source is what is providing your pet with the essential protein he/she needs.  And there are protein sources out there that are not healthy.  Avoid  ANIMAL DIGESTS - a broth made of specified OR unspecified parts of specified OR unspecified animals.  This includes the use of "4 D" animals - dead, diseased, disabled or dying prior to slaughter.  Do not buy food with any type of BY-PRODUCT listed as the meat source.  By-products include "clean" parts of the carcass, but these are less digestible, and include head, feet, bones, etc.  They are an inexpensive protein boost for the food.  The same basically holds true for a meat source labeled as MEAL.  Meat "meal" can also be sourced from "4 D" animals, due to lack of quality control standards.
This should provide you with a basic start to the Dog Food Dilemma - I will follow up with blogs about the RAW diet, allergy diets, and high protein/low-carb diets.
~Happy Hounding